The wheels didn't turn and the engine didn't choke. I took the mower, turned the throttle all the way down, and let it push up against a big tree. I'll let you know how it goes when I get these two rubber pieces replaced. I think I am going to replace the inner lining rubber and the rubber that rides on the plate connected to the crankshaft on the engine. I thought it was metal and made to the metal disc.
I was wondering if the rubber is supposed to spin on the disc assembly. The rubber IS hard and flat on top(the rubber that rides on the plate connected to the crankshaft). I took the driven disc off (the one with the rubber on it) of the machine. I took in mind what you said and went out there and studied it. Easily accomplished by anyone with any measure of mechanical inclination and a little patience. Rear axle work of any kind is relatively simple on a Snapper of your vintage. But in an emergency you can stomp both brakes and really haul her to a stop. Normally the clutch/brake will stop you just fine. The aux brake is for use in hard stop scenarios. All approximate as I am at home and not the shop. Driven disc about $8, gear oil, $4, inspection plugs $1. Try Google.Ĭost depends on what all you do. I don't know about discount Snapper parts. Note: Get a new plug and SNAPPER gear oil from your dealer before removal. Next pop the black plastic inspection plug out of the gear box and check the oil level. Also lubricate the shift linkage most people don't and they get stiff and flex, thus not moving the driven disc into the correct position.
What year is my snapper rider cracked#
If it is cracked or appears flat instead of rounded change it before you do anything else. This is a wear and tear part and is generally inexpensive. Generally the rubber on the driven disc will either wear out or harden to the point that it will no longer grip the the drive disc. Travis, In a snapper rear end you have 2 discs, a stationary or "drive" disc that is on the crank of the engine and the driven disc. How hard is it to replace the rear axle seals and bearings/bushings? What is the Auxilary brake pedal used for, and when do you apply it?Ħ. Are there any discount Snapper parts' websites?ĥ. How much will EVERYTHING cost to fix it?Ĥ. Are there any adjustments I could try to make?ģ. The first one got rebuilt, and lasted a good while longer till it was time to retire it.Ģ. forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I put the second engine on it.
Plus, it was handed down from my paw-paw. Even the decals (stickers) are in good shape. Last year, I replaced both front wheel bearings, left front wheel grease zerk, and all of the steering bushings. I woul like to repaint the mower, but don't know how hard the process wouls be. I could have been hurt bad, but was lucky. But my back was a little sore for a few days. I even flipped it completely over on top of me when I was loading it in the back of my truck. It is an EXCELLENT mower and is in real good shape.
I hate to keep using it and possibly tear it up. There is NO grinding or popping or any abnormal noise in the transmission. I think it has a new rubber disc or drive plate on it or something like that.
I'll try to rock it back and forth while I am on the seat to "help it out", but that only works sometimes. But anyway, there is a good little problem wrong with it. (It now has a 12.5 horse Briggs Power Built.) I don't know what the X5S stands for. The model # is: 3011X5S, meaning 30 inch cut, 11 horse power (Briggs). I have an at least a 20 year old Snapper rear-engine riding lawn mower.
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